The first day, did not start well, when we realised the rental firm where our vehicle was located was a long way from where we were staying. Family were busy, so an Uber was called, and we set off through the morning traffic. We will certainly study the map more throughly next time before booking. Nice driver, but hates Melbourne traffic. It was to be our first taste of this phenomenon, as we had never driven in Melbourne before and we would soon be amid the crush. Navigation set up, and co-navigator (me), whose job it was to read screen and report to driver. Anyway, we made it out of the city, (phew) and onto the much lauded Great Ocean Road! Ye ha!

Apollo Bay, here we come! We were stopping there for the night, and looking forward to arriving. The road looks wriggly on the map, but it doesn’t show the heights of the cliffs we travelled along, offering spectacular views on the way. The road is one lane each way, with plenty of lay-bys, and well-signed for slower drivers to use when needed. We weren’t bothered by the road, as New Zealanders, we are quite used to such terrain. However, one traveller clearly wasn’t, switched his hazard lights on and stopped, right there, on the road! The man was in high anxiety mode, and while we stopped to check on him, others drove around us.

He, poor chap, was terrified of heights, and had not realised the road was so high with steep drops. We suggested he follow us (we promised to drive slowly), and if other cars appeared we would turn into a lay-by. Hence we inched our way to the outskirts of Apollo Bay, where he had located a road turning inland and would return to the Melbourne via the motorway. He didn’t fear dense traffic it seems, having come from a big city overseas. A handshake, and well-wishes given and each car was on its way. Mind you, I was pretty shaken by this experience, and though tired, couldn’t drop off to sleep for ages.

Apollo Bay was delightful, the beach calm on the days we visited, although most beaches along this coast are treats for surfers. The town itself was a little tired, yet, we happened upon an extremely good Italian restaurant Casalingo… and ate a superb meal (great gnocchi). I highly recommend it. It was a shame we couldn’t take advantage of the great walks and animal reserves in the area, although we would make up for this a little, on the way back. The drive out took us passed more beaches before it swayed away from the cliffs to return later on to pass some stunning scenery. We had read of the Twelve Apostles as being a great place to visit, but, the crush of visitors on the viewing platforms made it uncomfortable, with being so close to others, and unable to view these ancient eroded limestone structures unimpeded, drove a little further on, and were able to take a couple of good photos.

And onto our next stop in Warrnambool, where we were booked into an interesting AirBnB whose owners were actively living ‘off the grid’. The cottages were mud-brick, and cosy, looking out onto gardens, grapevines and greenery. It was late and we were hungry, but chose to drive further to eat at Port Fairy, a beautiful small town with history brimming from its pores. I loved the attractive stone buildings lining the street leading to the wharf, where we ate great (but very expensive) fish & chips in the restaurant. We regretted not having more time to explore the area and learn more of its Irish history.

Homeward, and a stop at the Koala reserve on the far side of Apollo Bay. A very nice reserve, though just two koala were observed; one awake. It is suggested visitors come early in the day, so a gamble on our part to observe them. It was good to read a little of Aboriginal history in this area, on information boards along the walks (the only place we saw any mention of this). And again, our regret we weren’t able to spend more time exploring the Great Ocean Road, for we had only scratched the surface of its rich history. We drove back taking an inland road that was equally interesting, driving through large native gums which arced over our heads. Loved it.