Time Travel

Preparing to leave Kathmandu with Head Guide F’dorje.

Looking back, it seems, becomes more common as the years advance, for when I read of a blogger friend’s adventure to Nepal in 1982, I was immediately transported to my own travel experience in 1992. Early that year I read an advertisement for small group walking tours in the foothills of Mt Everest, Solukhumbu, Nepal. It so appealed; lots of walking, wonderful scenery, a different culture, this was for me! And, I should add, this would be my first trip overseas. I wrote to the company immediately, received the information, and three weeks later I landed in Kathmandu along with my walking buddies; Diane the leader, Jill, Annie and I – strangers until we met at Auckland airport! Note: Solukhumbu is the area where New Zealander Sir Edmund Hillary had built schools, hospitals and given other support, since he had famously scaled Mt Everest alongside Sherpa Tensing in 1952.

The first school we came across

Coincidentally Sir Edmund Hillary was in Kathmandu at the same time as our group, to attend the annual conference of the Hillary Trust Foundation. And, as Diane and husband John knew him well, we got to have dinner with him, and other Trust members, the day before setting off to the mountains. Diane had lived in Nepal a few years before, and her knowledge of the area advantaged our group no end. We visited schools at Sir Edmund’s request, met staff and children at each, who streamed down the hills to meet us on arrival. I even had a Nepalese teacher share my tent at one stage. I was privileged to meet them all.

The little bus took us to Jiri, where we stayed the night. We would be walking from here, rather than fly, which Diane explained, helped us acclimatise better to the altitude.

The next day, Thursday March 19th 1992, we trekked to Shivalaya, approximately six hours away. The day was mild and the walk moderate, although I admit to feeling tired (see notes under drawing). The camp was set up quickly on arrival beside a lovely river, thanks to the great helpers who were with us throughout. And soon I had my sketchbook out to note the scene.

While we were walking

Lucky I found my sketchbook, as I jotted notes under my sketches, for I couldn’t find the maps and diary I have put ‘somewhere’ and will no doubt find tomorrow!

Anyway, on Saturday 21st we walked downhill from Thodung and arrived in Pukharba about midday. Sunday 22nd was a long uphill day, with us arriving at Gepsoa about 3pm.

I was ahead of the others, so sat in the kitchen with the sherpas. I did a very quick sketch of cook Minma Noru who was playing the mouth organ.

On Thursday 26th March I was sitting outside my tent in Paphula. It was very hazy around the mountains, the sun bright I have noted. Yes, that is me, aged 44. It was not uncommon for local children to come up to us, and want to be in a photo. It is a nice memory.

Miscellaneous gear at Paphula

This sketch isn’t dated, although I have written I drew it sitting outside my tent in Thomo, where we had camped for the night. Above it I have written that we spent the previous night at Namche Bazaar, which is a buzzing town where most hikers come through on their way to Everest Base Camp to acclimatise for a day or two. I remember enjoying our day there, visiting the market, stopping at a teahouse, and chatting with other trekkers.

And suddenly my sketchbook skips to Sunday 5th April and finds me in Khunde, which sits at around 12,000ft. It’s a lovely morning, I write, after a snowfall and I am sitting outside drawing. The wooden vessel sits beside the path and I ponder its use. A giant’s cup, a scoop, or a dog bowl? In the valley a bit further out from Khunde, I sketched the scene below. It was very cold at night I recall, and the iced snow crunched underfoot when we set off the next morning.

My last recorded sketch from Nepal

However, it wasn’t my last stop by any means. We visited several monasteries, and met several monks and nuns. We listened to chanting, and ringing bells as animals passed by. And at the end, Trek-buddy Annie and I added a little more to this trip, by opting to raft down the Trisuli River a bit, then stopover in the Chitwan National Park.

Annie and I eager to set forth

Sadly the river was lacking rapids too little to mention that day, so we sweltered in 27degrees without the cooling of spray. I was wanting to challenge myself, and hoped to be yelling in excitement. Oh well, it was still fun watching out to the banks and seeing hundreds of monkeys skittering along. Onto to Chitwan. And more fun, in the form of a bathing elephant. Annie had gone for a stroll and came running back to the tent saying I should see the elephants bathing. You’ll need your swimsuit on, she added. So….

Me in front, and a German girl and trainer seated behind.

When I have found the other documents which are lacking from this post, I promise to tell you more about other places in the Solukhumbu region in Nepal, and some very different stories. This was the most amazing place to experience, and it will stay forever as one of the best times in my life.

Do take a look at the links to give you further information.

7 thoughts on “Time Travel

  1. Fantastic photo of you in Paphula. This was a tremendous trip. The scenery is magnificent. I also find travelling exciting. I have not been to Nepal but have been to Thailand and China. Experiences never to forget. When younger my husband and I travelled, with our little tent, through Europe.
    We had learnt the art of putting up a tent in about ten minutes. Talk about time travel. How do you reverse the clock?

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    • How wonderful that you and your husband got to travel in Europe with your little tent. There is something most romantic about this. Travelling in the east is interesting in quite different ways, but all good and so uniquely interesting.

      I unfortunately cant answer your question Yvonne, except to say, keep thinking young, stay fit, and engage with intelligent matter, and vital people.

      Best wishes, Vivienne

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    • Hi Neil, thanks for your comments. I was chuffed to meet Edmund Hillary who had been a hero all my life. A humble man who did so much to challenge himself and help others. After my trip I used to joke with friends that I was probably now in the ‘Who’s Who of Kathmandu.’

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  2. An interesting historical account, Vivienne. What an adventure! Especially going to schools and meeting the pupils in the area. I love your little sketches which nicely back-up the travel commentary. And the various and contrasting modes of transport used – buses, rafts and elephants!

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  3. What an adventure! And sketching on holidays (for those with the skill and patience to do it) locks the memories in so much more solidly, I think. What a wonderful, tangible souvenir of what must have been a very special experience.

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